Ka Urupare Ngā Kaihanga Muka ki Ngā Huringa

Ahakoa kei te neke ētahi ki ngā mea taiao, kei te arotahi ētahi ki ngā huarahi hei whakakakariki ake i ngā muka hangai.
 Ko ngā panonitanga o ngā hiahia o ngā kaihoko, ngā utu nui o ngā rauemi mata, me te mea nui pea, ko ngā ture a te kāwanatanga, kei te tere whakarerekē i te mekameka tuku mō te maha o ngā hua kore-whatu. Kei te whakaitihia e ngā kamupene tō rātou whakawhirinaki ki ngā muka kirihou tuku iho, ā, kei te titiro atu ki ngā kirihou koiora me ngā muka taiao.
Ahakoa e kore rawa e taea te whakakapi katoa i ngā kirihou tuku iho i roto i ngā mahi maha—ahakoa te taumaha, te mahi rānei—kei te tino hurihia te āhua o ngā mākete horoi me ngā tauera horoi o te ao e ēnei panonitanga, me te arotahi atu ki ngā kai taiao.
Kei te aro atu ngā kaihanga o ngā muka taiao me ngā muka hangai ki ēnei huringa mā te whakawhanake i ngā hua hou, ngā tukanga whakaputa kua whakapaitia, me te mahi tahi me ngā kamupene e aro ana ki te koiora ki te rapu huarahi hei waihanga i tētahi āhua matomato ake puta noa i ā rātou pakihi.
"He mea tino nui te oranga tonutanga nā te mea ko te muka hangarua/hangaia anō tā mātou mahi. He nui ake ngā kōrero mō te ōhanga porowhita me te hiahia nui ake mō ngā kaupapa me ngā hua oranga tonutanga i te mākete," te kī a Bryan Tickle, te kaiwhakahaere kaute matua mō Leigh Fibers. "Nā tēnei i whakaaro ai mātou ki ngā huarahi rerekē hei whakamahi i ō mātou pūkenga katoa i Leigh ki te waihanga hua hou hei urutau ki tētahi ao matomato. He maha atu ā mātou kiritaki e pātai ana mō te tango i ā rātou para, te hanga hua muka mai i aua para, me te whakahoki mai i aua muka ki a rātou i roto i te āhua pēra, i te āhua papa rānei hei whakamahi i roto i ā rātou hua whakamutunga. Ngā Kaupapa Porowhita."
Ko te mea pea i tino pā ki te hoahoa o ngā mea kore-whatu me ngā hua kore-whatu ko te Ture Whakamahinga Kirihou a te Kotahitanga o Ūropi, i whai mana i te Hōngongoi 2021. Nā tēnei ture, me ngā mahi rite e haere ake nei i te US, Kanata me ētahi atu whenua, kua pēhia ngā kaihanga o ngā tauera horoi me ngā hua akuaku wahine, kei te rārangi tuatahi o ngā hua kei raro i ngā ture me ngā whakaritenga tapanga. Kua horapa te urupare, ā, kua oati kē ētahi kamupene ki te whakakore i ngā kirihou i ā rātou hua.
Ahakoa kāore ngā muka VEOCEL pirau-rakau a te kamupene i raro i te whānuitanga o te EU Single Use Plastics Directive, ā, kāore hoki i te kiia he kirihou, kei te arotahi tonu te kamupene ki te whakapakari ake i te oranga tonutanga mā roto i ngā kaupapa haumitanga tata nei ki Brazil me Thailand (€1.2 piriona) me te haumitanga ki ōna wāhi Āhia o nāianei ki Haina me Indonesia e eke ana ki te €200 miriona, ko te arotahi matua ko te noho koretake o te āhuarangi puta noa i te rōpū. I te tau 2019, ko Lenzing te kaihanga muka tuatahi ki te whakatakoto i te whāinga ki te whakaiti i ana tukunga waro mā te 50% i te tau 2030, ā, kia kore rawa i te tau 2050. Kua manatokohia, kua whakaaetia hoki tēnei whāinga whakaiti waro e te Science Based Targets Initiative.
Hei tāpiritanga, ko te hononga ki te kaihanga penupenu o Huitene, a Södra, he tohu anō tēnei i roto i ngā mahi a Lenzing ki te whakatutuki i āna whāinga āhuarangi me te oranga tonutanga. Ko ēnei kaiārahi mākete o te ao e rua, kua roa nei e whakatairanga ana i te ōhanga porowhita i roto i te umanga ahua, kei te hono tahi ki te whakanui ake i te take, me te whai wāhi nui ki te whakatau i te raruraru para kakahu o te ao. Kei te whakamaheretia hoki he whakawhānui ake i ngā kaha mō te whakaora penupenu mai i ngā para kakahu. Ko te whāinga kia taea te hangarua i te 25,000 tana o ngā kakahu kua whakamahia ia tau i te tau 2025.
Ehara i te mea he mea nui noa iho te pumau i roto i te rautaki i Lenzing, engari he mātāpono ārahi hoki mō te auahatanga me te whanaketanga hua. I haere tonu a Lenzing ki te whakawhānui ake i ana tuku hua mō ngā rāngai kakahu me ngā rāngai kore-whatu i te tau 2021. I te hauwhā tuatoru i whakaatuhia ai ngā muka lyocell TENCEL tuatahi i hangaia mai i te penupenu muka rakau me te karaka. Ko te whakamahi anō i ngā kiri karaka hei wāhanga o te kaupapa Tencel Limited Edition e tohu ana i tētahi atu taahiraa angitu a Lenzing ki te whakawhanake i ngā otinga porowhita kati hou me ngā hoa mahi i te mekameka uara. Ko te whakaurunga o ngā muka waro-kore tuatahi ki te mākete kore-whatu o te ao i raro i te waitohu VEOCEL he mea hanga anō i tētahi atu auahatanga hua mai i te tau pūrongo e whakaatu ana i te ara nui a Lenzing i roto i te tiaki āhuarangi.
"Kua roa te ahunga whakamua o te hanga kawenga engari kei reira tonu ngā kaimahi kino. Ko te mea nui me arotahi tātou ki te mea pai mō te hauora o te tangata mō te wā roa," te kī a Carlyle, me te tāpiri me whai wāhi tonu ngā muka tipu me ngā muka hinu ki te umanga kore-whatu.
"Mai i te tirohanga a Lenzing, he rauemi mata e tika ana te kirihou. E hiahiatia ana engari me ako tātou me pēhea te whakakore tika i aua mea," tāna tāpiri. "He rerekē tā tātou titiro ki ngā hua pakari i tā tātou titiro ki ngā hua whakakorekore engari me ako tātou me pēhea te whakaaro ki te pānga o ēnei hua katoa."
I te kitenga ko te rautaki tipu a Lenzing e aro ana ki a Lyocell nā te mea he muka me te tukanga pumau ake, e tohu ana a Carlyle ki te haumitanga hou a te kamupene ki Thailand, e kaha ana ki te hanga 100,000 tana o ngā muka lyocell hei whakatutuki i te hiahia mō tēnei hua.
Ka haere tonu a Lenzing ki te whakawhānui i tana kaha whakaputa muka lyocell, e ai ki tana rautaki sCore TEN, e whai ana kia whakaputa i te 75% o ana moni whiwhi muka mai i ngā muka motuhake e aro nui ana ki te taiao pērā i a TENCEL, Lenzing Ecovero me ngā muka VEOCEL i te tau 2024. Kei te pae o Thailand he wāhi mō ētahi atu raina whakaputa. Kei roto i te haumitanga i te wāhanga tuatahi ngā hanganga whānui ka whai hua ki te whakawhānui ake a meake nei. Heoi, ka haere tonu a Lenzing ki te rapu i ngā whai wāhitanga ki te whakawhānui ake i te whakaputanga lyocell ki ētahi atu wāhanga o te ao.
E ai ki a Rahul Bansal, te tumuaki whanaketanga pakihi o te ao, ngā mea kore-whatu, i Birla Cellulose, kua whakakapia te utu me te mahi e te huinga o te pumau, te mahi me te utu hei kaupapa matua mō te whiriwhiri muka. "Ināianei, ko te whiriwhiri rauemi mata e whakawhirinaki ana ki te pumau o te taiao," tana kī. "Ina kī au he pumau, ko te tikanga ko te kimi rauemi mata, te hanga, te hua me tōna wā mutunga o te oranga kāore e kino, e whakaiti rānei i te taiao, ā, ka whai ake ko ngā paearu tino nui mō te pai o te rauemi mata mō ngā hangarau kore-whatu o nāianei.
 

Kei te Haere Tonu te Miro
Ko te ingoa miro te tohu mōna ake—e mōhio ana, e aroha ana hoki ngā kaihoko ki te āhua me te ahua o te miro, heoi, kua tino pai te mahi a ētahi muka hangai ki te tārua i tēnei āhua me te ahua, ā, kua whakaaro ētahi kaihoko he nui ake tōna tūranga i roto i ngā mea whakakorekore i te mea tūturu. Kua rerekē tēnei i ngā tau tata nei nā ngā mahi whakaakoranga kaihoko, i arahina e Cotton Incorporated, te mōhiotanga nui ake o te kaihoko whānui me ngā mahi ture e hiahia ana kia whakapai ake i te tapanga.
Ehara i te mea ko te miro anake ngā painga mō te oranga tonutanga, engari he haumaru hoki, he hauora hoki mō te kiri, ā, he hypoallergenic hoki. He mea nui tēnei mō te hunga he kiri tairongo, me ngā hua kua hangaia hei whakamahi i ngā wāhi o te tinana e tairongo ake ai te kiri pērā i ngā nāpi pēpi, ngā hua akuaku wahine me ngā hua tiaki pakeke.
I te taha kaihoko, kua piki haere te whakamahinga o te miro i roto i ngā tauera horoi i ngā tau tata nei nā te whakapainga o ngā raina me ngā haumitanga a ngā kaihanga kore-whatu e mahi ana ki tēnei mākete. I te tīmatanga i whakaarohia te miro hei wāhanga mimiti noa iho o te tauera horoi pēpi, engari ko ngā hua hydrophobic, pērā i te TruCotton a Wildwood Cotton Technologies, ka taea te whakamahi inaianei hei whakakapi mō te polyester, te polypropylene rānei i roto i ētahi tono.
I tēnei wā, i roto i te ao akuaku, kua tino piki haere te hiahia ki ngā whāriki kei roto he miro e pā ana ki te kiri o te kaiwhakamahi. I kitea tuatahitia ēnei whanaketanga i roto i ngā mahi akuaku wahine, engari kua whānui haere inaianei ki ngā hua nāpi.
I te huihuinga hua kaihoko Hygienix o te tau kua hipa, i whakawhiwhia a Kudos, he kamupene hou mō ngā nāpi, ki tētahi tohu auaha mō āna nāpi he 100% te miro manawa e pā ana ki te kiri o te pēpi. Ehara i te mea ko te kaha o tēnei hua ki te whakaputa i ngā tukunga waro iti iho i tētahi atu kamupene nāpi whakakorekore, engari koia hoki te rauemi nama tuatahi i tūtohutia e te tākuta mō te hunga he ponana, he ekisema rānei, ā, kei a Kudos te hiri miro tūturu mō te whakakīia ki te 100% te miro hei utu mō te kirihou. Kua whakamanahia hoki ngā nāpi Kudos ki te paerewa haumaru tino kaha, arā, ko te OEKO-TEX Standard 100.
"Kei konei mātou i tēnei rā nā te mea e aro nui ana ngā mātua ki ngā mea kei roto i ngā nāpi o ā rātou pēpi," te kī a te kaiwhakaū me te Tumu Whakarae, a Amrita Saigal. "E aro nui ana hoki rātou ki te pānga ki te taiao o ngā hua e hokona ana e rātou."
"E whakaatu ana ngā rangahau ka roa te pirau o ngā nāpi i roto i ngā whenua ururua, ka puta he hau methane me ētahi atu hau paitini, mā te whakamahi i ngā matū pūngāwerewere ka mutu ki te pūnaha rauropi. E 200,000 ngā rākau e ngaro ana i ia tau hei hanga nāpi whakakorekore mā ngā pēpi i te US anake. Mena ka hangaia ngā nāpi katoa i te ara Kudos, ka whakakapia te 500 miriona pauna o te kirihou ki te miro ma, kāore i whakama, he miro tūturu. E 2 piriona pauna o ngā rauemi nāpi i ahu mai i te wahie pūngāwerewere ka tangohia mai i ngā rauemi whakahou i ia tau."
Haunga te ngawari me te āhua o te kiri, kei te piki haere te whakamahinga o te miro i te mea kei te whakawhāitihia e ngā ture a te kāwanatanga te whakamahinga o ngā rauemi kirihou i roto i ngā taonga kotahi te whakamahinga, me te hiahia kia whakaarohia e ngā kaihanga ngā rauemi hou i roto i ngā hua pēnei i ngā tauera horoi me ngā hua akuaku.
I te mea kei te piki haere te hiranga o te mārama o ngā kai, inā koa ki ngā kaihoko wahine, kua nui haere te whakamahinga o te miro i roto i ngā mahi akuaku. Nā ngā kamupene akuaku a ngā wāhine i ārahi, kei te mau tonu tēnei ia ki ngā waitohu nui pēnei i te waitohu Always Pure a Procter & Gamble, he ōrau miro kei roto.
Kei te mahi hoki ngā kaiwhakatipu miro ki te whakapiki i ngā hua me te whakapai ake i te āhua pumau o ngā muka. I roto i ngā tau 20 kua pahure ake nei, kua mahi ngā kaiwhakatipu miro ki te mahi i ētahi atu mea me te iti iho. Kua whakapiki ake rātou i ngā hua me te kore e whakapiki ake i te whakamahinga wai, ā, i te ao whānui, e 3% noa iho o te wai katoa e whakamahia ana e te miro e whakamahia ana i roto i te ahuwhenua.